The feast of the patroness of Coroico, the Virgin of Candalaria, is a week-long celebration - a parade of flowers, masses, rosaries on the streets, a procession of traditional dances in which almost everyone is involved.
The dancers go on their knees and cross themselves before the Virgin.
The underside of this is the steady drinking (induced ecstasy) of the indefatigable celebrants.
Some are not dancing this day. They have gathered from distant towns for their kind of sport - the cock-fights.
Birds are weighed and matched within grams.
Challengers from distant La Paz and Caranavi are slated to face the roosters of local favorites like Enrique and the Senior Mattas. 
"Points" are taped to their legs and the birds are thoroughly watered down to keep them cool.
After the money is placed the pair of cocks is put in the ring.
They fight for a half hour while their trainers urge them “Sube, Niño” (“Up, my boy”) and side bets are called. 
The birds begin furiously, leaping, feathers flying, gradually slowing until they are circling against each other ...
The birds begin furiously, leaping, feathers flying, gradually slowing until they are circling against each other ...
At the end of the round they are quickly retrieved by their trainers. If no bird has been killed the match is declared a draw and all bets are returned.
The cocks will probably fight again in three months. (Of the three rounds I saw, each ended in a draw.)
And this continues on into the night.
Meanwhile back in the town plaza a mellow trumpet fanfare sounds.
The Mariachi band signals the beginning of the midnight serenade to the Virgin.
Church doors are thrown open and the dancers follow the sombreros up the center aisle for a last round of songs to Mary ...
...
before returning to street dancing and fireworks and drinking and stumbling happily home.
