Saturday, March 17, 2007

City of Peril and Promise



Jean and I are now settled in Cochabamba among warm and friendly people. We will be her e for five months of language training before going to the countryside.

We were delayed in arriving in January because of demonstrations in Cochabamba. Campesinos (country people) from the outlying areas marched into town to protest Governor “Manfred” who is unresponsive to their needs. He fled; they burned his office. Then white youths from the prosperous side of town took to the streets with bats and swords. For the first time the two sides in this city confronted each other with weapons. One man on each side was killed and the city was stunned. In the end the Campesinos refused to be associated with their more radical leadership and simply went home. An uneasy tranquility has returned to a city that can no longer deny the powerful currents of racism just below its surface.

Cochabamba is a lens on the whole of Bolivia. Seventy percent of the population is indigenous (Indian) and, for the first time, they have an indigenous president. The powerful descendents of the Spaniards don’t want to be backed against a wall and are ready to fight.





Every house in Cochabamba seems to be fronted by a nine foot wall which is topped with graceful wrought-iron spikes, or barbed wire, or simple broken bottles. But it is a city of flowers too! Exotic blossoms surmount the fences spilling color on all sides. They are a more hopeful symbol for Cochabamba and all Bolivia.